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Nobex Hand Miter Saw
Economical alternative


Miter Saws
Large selection from Tools-Plus
Tools-Plus will beat some lower prices on the web by 10%. See their price guarantee





Jeff Greef Woodworking

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Page 3, Moldings
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Photo 11- Use the crank clamp on your miter saw as a crown molding adjustment device. Turn the crank forward or backward until the angled crown mold rests at 45o on the saw base.
If you looking for a miter saw, click here.

Since no wall, floor, or ceiling is perfectly flat gaps will appear between these and the moldings. Taper the bottom of baseboards with a block plane to fit irregular floors. Align crown molding to the lowest part of the ceiling, and use drywall taping compound to taper the ceiling to the top of the crown molding. For smaller gaps, use caulking to fill. When a molding must be bent slightly, cut kerfs at 90o to the length of the molding on the back. Cut them half way through the molding or more, and space them an inch apart. The kerfs allow the wood to bend easily.

Fasten moldings to the wall with finish nails that are just long enough to pass through drywall and enter the wood behind a half inch at least. Be sure the nails enter studs or jambs, not drywall alone. Set the nails below the molding surface 1/8" with a nail set to provide a hole large enough for filler to adhere. Power nailers make the work go much faster than using a hammer. Air powered nail guns require a compressor. Very small portable compressors are relatively inexpensive and any of these will power a finish nailer. Consider purchasing these if you plan to do more than two rooms. Electric finish nailers are also available.

Photo 12- Use small pieces of door shim (available at lumber yards and home centers) as wedges to push inside miters together. Tap in with a hammer. When the glue dries, cut the shim off, don't pull it out.

Proper sanding and filling before painting and between coats is the key to a smooth, attractive painted finish. Begin by filling nail holes with spackling paste, and gaps at joints and drywall with caulk. When the fillers are dry, sand the bare moldings with 80 to 120 grit to eliminate mill marks (from molding knives) and other irregularities. Prime coat with interior bare wood primer that is slightly thinned. Thinning causes it to dry harder faster so you can sand sooner. Sand the prime coat with 180 grit after it is dry and look for any depressions you missed with filler the first time. Fill these, let dry, sand smooth, then apply a top coat. Sand once more when this is dry, and apply the final coat. By always sanding between coats you remove unwanted fibers or dust that stand up in the wet finish, as well as identify any depressions that still need filling.

Coping Saw


Spray Guns
High volume, low pressure means less overspray.


Porter Cable 2HP Air Compressor



Photo 13- To cut a cope on inside baseboard joints, first cut a miter on the piece, then use a coping saw cutting along the shaped edge of the miter.
If you need a coping saw, click here.

Use a similar procedure for a varnished finish. Do all filling before applying any finish. Use a colored putty that matches your stain color, or slightly darker if an exact match is not available. With porous woods such as oak, avoid smearing filler onto adjacent smooth areas that don't need to be filled, because the filler will fill pores and make them appear different than the surrounding wood. If you are using stain, be sure it is compatible with the top coat you will use. Water, alcohol, and lacquer based stains can be redissolved by the solvent in the top coat and smeared. Petroleum based stains (paint thinner) will not do this. Use thinned varnish for the primer coat (unless the manufacturer says not to thin) and sand lightly between coats with 320 grit sandpaper.

Photo 14- A cope joint fits directly over the adjacent profile. Adjust the fit of a cope joint with round files.

Some spray equipment is priced low enough that it is a viable alternative for home application- less than $200. It takes time to mask off all adjacent areas so that they won't be painted or varnished, but overall the process takes less time because spraying goes fast. As well, a properly applied spray finish is smoother because it lacks brush marks. When first using a sprayer, use test pieces and deliberately spray too much finish causing it to run. This will quickly teach you what not to do on the real thing. Use even, regular strokes and learn how to use the gun adjustments to best apply the finish you are using. Thin the finish only enough so that it will spray.

If you need painting supplies, click here.
Photo 15- Mark out half round moldings by scribing a straight line on the wall, aligning the molding to the line, and marking the curved mold on both sides where it intersects.

Consider wipe on oil for a stain grade finish, such as Watco. It is faster and easier to use than varnishes, and has a natural appearance. Some brands have stain in them so that you color the wood simultaneously. Apply oil only until the wood will absorb no more, then wipe off excess with a clean cloth. Usually a second coat is necessary for maximum absorption.

Wipe on oils are not as abrasion resistant as varnishes, and do not resist staining as easily. Use water based polyurethane varnish where the moldings will see a lot of use such as kitchens and halls, and save the natural appearing oil finish for your private reading nook.

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