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Safety
Jeff Greef Woodworking
If the above techniques fail, shave the edge of the door. With the door in place, use a pencil compass to scribe a line along the edge of the door in the area where it sticks to show you where to shave (photo 4). Run the compass along the jamb edge or casing edge as shown to make a straight line on the door.
For measuring tools, click here. Remove the door from the jamb by pulling the pins from the hinges. Place a small nail in the bottom of the hinge and hit it with a hammer to loosen the pin. Take the door outside if possible so you won't get shavings and wood dust in the carpet. Prop the door up on edge and hold it in place with one handscrew clamped to the door at the ground on each end of the door. Use a sharp handplane as in photo 5 to shave the door edge to the line you scribed. You can also do this with a belt sander and an 80 grit belt, or by sanding by hand with 60 or 30 grit sandpaper held on a flat sanding block. |
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For hand planes, click here. Note that there is a slight bevel on the door edge which allows the door to clear the jamb as it opens. Be sure to retain this bevel as you reduce the door edge. If a door sticks at the bottom or if it rubs on new carpet, cut the bottom of the door with a circular saw. The saw blade can splinter the door face as the cut is made, but you can prevent this with masking tape and a utility knife. Place two inch wide masking tape along the bottom of the door face and press firmly in place. Lay a straight edge along the door bottom where you will make the cut, and score the line of cut with a utility knife as in photo 6. Remove the straight edge, but not the tape. |
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Clamp a piece of 3/4 inch plywood with a straight edge to the door as a guide for the circular saw. Locate it such that the inside blade edge just hits your score line when the saw platen rubs against the plywood fence. Start the saw and push it along the fence, keeping the platen firmly butted to the fence as in photo 7. |
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For circular saws, click here. Apply interior polyurethane finish to the bottom of the door to seal the bare wood and reduce swelling from moisture laden air (photo 8). To re-install the door, prop it in place in the doorway on scrap wood spacers to hold it off the floor as you mesh the hinge knuckles together. Replace the hinge pins and remove the spacers below. |
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Resources For Fixing A Stuck DoorClamps | Drill Bits | Glue | Hand Drills | Hand Planes | Measuring Tools | Plug Cutters | Circular Saws |This is Page 2 of this project. Go to Page 1. Home |
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