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Jeff Greef Woodworking
Cut slots in the legs with the biscuit joiner fence in the 90o position as in photo 7. You can join the legs to the rails with dowels if you have a dowel jig that will locate dowels on a mitered edge. Few dowel jigs will do this, one that does is the Record jig. You could locate the dowels with a drill press jig that holds the rails in the right location for accurate boring.
TOP AND SHELF Edge glue enough pieces together for the top and shelf, to get plates that measure 24" square and 20" square. Your biscuit joiner will really help you out here, keeping the pieces aligned to each other during the glue up. For the shelf, use one of the rails to flush trim the shape into the edges. First trace the shape onto the shelf, and locate the corner surfaces that will join the legs as shown in the drawing. Then rough cut the curves on the band saw. Now attach one of the rails on the bottom of the shelf on one side with small finish nails. Drill three 1/16" diameter holes in the rail and place the nails in these holes. Flush trim this side of the shelf, then move the rail to the next. Later, fill the holes with putty. Use a similar procedure to shape the top. Draw grid lines on a piece of scrap and trace the shape from the drawing. Cut this out and sand it smooth, then use this template to trace each side and then flush trim it. |
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The Dowl-It brand jig will work well for this procedure. To see it, click here. Bore holes in the shelf ends for 3/8" dowels with a dowel jig as in photo 8. Mark locations on the legs for the corresponding dowel holes. Do so at the point of the curve on the legs which is at 90o to the floor. Because of the round over, you may need to flatten this spot on the legs to get level areas for the shelf ends to contact. Do this with a block plane or stationary sander. Use the dowel jig to bore holes in the legs. If you choose, put a router detail on the edges of the top and shelf, but stop the detail before it gets to the corners of the shelf. |
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GLUE UP Band clamps work wonders for glue ups like this (photo 9). But, they aren't always strong enough to pull the joints tight, so use bar clamps -gently- as shown to pull it tight. Another way to pull all this together is with nylon cord, which stretches a bit. If you wrap 100 feet of it tightly around the assembly, the combined squeeze of all the wrappings provides adequate pressure. Once out of clamps or cord install corner blocks with glue and screws as shown in photo 10 to strengthen the joints. |
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To see tapered bits with countersinks for predrilling for screws, click here. To see hand drills, click here. ATTACHING THE TOP Any wide wooden plate, like this top, will have substantial movement across the grain. Therefore, don't glue the top to the rails, but screw it on with blocks at about ¾ x ¾ x 4 inches or so. Make the holes in the blocks for the screw shanks that go into the top about twice the diameter of the shanks, and use washers to hold the screw head to the wood. This way the table top can move all it wants to, dragging the screws along with it within the large holes. FINISH Sand to 220 grit. On a table like this that will probably get exposed to moisture from glasses or flower vases, use a water resistant finish like satin polyurethane varnish. Sand lightly with 400 grit paper between coats, and finish up with paste wax. A good book on the subject of finishes is Bob Flexner's Understanding Wood Finishing.This is Page 3 of this project. Go to Page 2. Go to Page 1. RESOURCES FOR BUILDING AN END TABLE Bandsaws | Belt Sanders | Biscuit Joiners | Clamps | Dowl-It Jig | Drill Bits | Drill Presses and Drum Sanders For | Hand Drills | Hand Planes | Miter Gauges | Planers | Router Bits | Router Tables | Table Saws Home |
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