Photo 4- Now flush trim the other legs to the shape of the first by using the first as a template at the router table. Keep your fingers away from the bit at all times.

Trace the shape of this leg onto the other three, and bandsaw close to these lines. Then attach the first leg to one of the others with small pieces of plywood and nails on the ends of the legs as in photo 4. This is why you left that triangle on the foot, so there would be room to fit the plywood. Locate the second leg on the first so that it overlaps all around. Then use the first leg as a template with a flush trim bit in the router table as shown. The photo shows a flush trim bit with the bearing mounted at the shank, but bits with the bearing mounted on the end will work just as well. The length of the cutting flutes on the bit needs to be at least 1-1/4". Flush trim all the legs to shape, then cut off the triangles on the feet and sand this area smooth.

Next set up a 1/2" radius roundover bit in the router table, and use this to round over the edges of the table legs. You can round over the entire edge if you wish, but by doing a partial round over you acheive a more subtle effect. Do this by lowering the bit in the router table so that it’s lower portion does not contact the wood in the cut. Don’t round over in the area where the dowels will go for the shelf.

RAIL TO LEG JOINTS

Photo 5- Cutting the miters on the ends of the rails at the table saw. Do this before you shape the rails because you need to flip the part to do the other end, so you need two straight edges to get accurate miters.

Rip rail stock to 3-1/2" wide, and then cut to length at 19-1/2" on the table saw with the miter gauge as in photo 5. Set the blade at 45o to the table, and set the miter gauge at 90o. Screw a backup piece on the miter fence as shown to support the rails and prevent tearout where the blade comes out of the cut.

Draw the curve (same as for the top) on one of the rails, cut it out on the band saw then sand to shape as before. Use this rail to trace the others, then band saw them close to the line. Next use the first to flush trim the others just as you did with the legs. You may not be able to get the flush trim bit to clean up the ends of the rails because of the miters, in this case leave an inch or so on the ends and sand it smooth. Attach the first rail to the others by nailing them together on the top edges.

Photo 6- Cut biscuit joints on the mitered ends of the rails like so. Your biscuit joiner fence should be adaptable for such a cut- most are, but if not, make a 45o fitting to hold the biscuit joiner steady.

Use a biscuit joiner to join the legs to the rails. To cut biscuit slots on the rail ends, use your biscuit joiner to set up on a 45o surface as in photo 6. Most biscuit joiners have fences that allow this kind of cut. Carefully align the cut, and make it where the wood is thick so the slot doesn't come through the other side.