Jeff Greef Woodworking
STEP FIVE- STICK AND RABBET
Your bit set is designed to cut both the sticking and rabbet simultaneously,
but for this procedure I did both separately because of the small size of the parts involved.
With the parts still attached to the templates I cut the sticking profile into all
the parts (photo 7). The bearing doesn't ride on the template for this step, but I
kept the templates attached solely for the safety handles.
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Photo 7- Cut the sticking shape into
all parts. Note that the bearing rides
on the part edge, not the template.
Attach the template to the parts for
the sake of the safety handles. |
On curved parts such as these, there are invariably sections where the router
is cutting against the grain. If you feed the part into the cutter against its
rotation on these sections as one normally does, tearout will result. The solution is to
cut these sections by feeding the part into the bit with the rotation of the cutter,
called "climbing the cut." This is potentially dangerous because the cutter can grab
the part and throw it. However, by following three rules I was able to do this safely;
-Always use safety handles attached to small parts.
-Apply firm, even pressure down onto the table throughout the cut.
-Make the cut in a series of light passes, 1/8th inch or so.
After I cut the sticking into all parts, I prepared to cut the rabbets. First,
however, I set up the coping pass in order to get an example of the cope cut. This
I used to adjust the height of the rabbet cutter for the rabbeting pass. This height
determines the thickness of the sticking, and thus the fit of the sticking in the cope
(see drawing 1). It is easier to adjust the thickness of the sticking to fit the cope
than vice versa. This fit is critical because on many parts this is the entire joint.
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Photo 8- After cutting the sticking,
set up the cope to get an example of its
cut. Then use this example to adjust the
height of the rabbeting cutter, and rabbet
all parts again attaching the templates and
safety handles. |