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Photo 1- Flatten the router table top with this router jig, which causes the router to travel in straight lines in both directions. |
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When the lamination is dry, set up to flatten it by clamping two boards with straight edges onto either side of the lamination as in photo 1. The top edges of these boards must meet three requirements. They must be straight, they must be parallel, and they must be clamped at close to equal distances from all four corners of the lamination. These boards act like winding sticks, so you can sight down them to ensure that they are parallel. Measure carefully to align the glue up with the tops of the boards.
The last component in the operation is the router slide jig. This is simply two straight pieces of 1x2 with a plywood router mount in the middle, as shown in photo 1. The slide jig rides on top of the straight edge boards clamped to the glue up, and guides the router along a straight path between the two boards.
Mount a 1/2" or greater diameter straight flute bit in the router, and set the depth of cut so that it reaches the lowest area on the lamination surface. Wax the straight edges on the guide boards, turn on the router, and gradually move the router back and forth until you have skimmed over the entire surface of the lamination.
This procedure will produce a flat surface only if the guide boards and jig boards are straight and parallel. Another threat to flatness is distortion to the lamination from clamps. Your bar clamps may bow the glue up as pressure is applied. When you cut the surface it will be flat, but when you let off the clamps it springs back and is no longer flat. If your bar clamps bow the lamination, place clamp blocks between the clamp jaws and the wood they contact. Shift the location of these blocks up or down to change the point at which pressure is applied. When pressure is applied at the center of the lamination, it should not bow.
When the top is flat, flip it over and flatten the bottom. This is important so that when you screw the base on, the top won't distort if the screws pull on an uneven surface along the bottom. The top and bottom needn't be exactly parallel, but challenge yourself and see if you can get them close. It's perfect when the thickness is even all the way around.
Make three rectangular frames for the base of the table, using the legs and rails shown on the cut out list. Note that you may wish to increase the height of the six legs according to the height you require beneath the table to fit your particular router. The given dimensions allow one foot clearance beneath which is adequate for most routers.