Photo 16- The drawer fronts are wider than the sides and rears to hide the bottoms. Cut a rabbet on the lower edge of the fronts for the bottom to land in.

Cut a rabbet along the bottom edge of the drawer fronts as in photo 16 for the leading edge of the drawer bottom to fit into. Leave the blade at the same height of cut as for the rabbets for the drawer sides, but adjust the rip fence for the thickness of the bottom pieces. Make this cut, then move the fence in close to the blade but not touching it, and cut again to clear most of the waste. Clear the remainder of the waste with a chisel.

To assemble the drawers place a front or rear in the vise as in photo 17, and drill for nails. Apply glue and tap the joint together.

Photo 17- Drill holes for the nails that fasten the drawers together, then glue and assemble.

Glue small stops onto the rear of the lowest shelf to keep the drawers even with the front. Put the drawers in place and locate the stops where they will hold the drawer correctly. For each drawer use two stops, one on each side.

HANGING THE SHELF

It's best to secure something like this directly to the studs in the wall rather than to plaster or drywall alone. Glue four small pieces onto the bottom of the top shelf at the rear as in drawing 4 to give screws something to hold onto. Use washers on the screws as shown to hold securely against the glued pieces. You could use drywall mollies instead for something as light as this shelf, but if you do, don't use it to display your prized collection of 40lb. lead fishing weights.

Resources For Building A Knickknack Shelf