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Safety
Jeff Greef Woodworking
SCROLL CUTS
If you need a hammer, click here. Attach the two sides together with small nails before cutting out the patterns, so both sides can be cut at once. It is a good idea to drill holes for nails that you put into hardwoods (photo 2), otherwise the nail could split the wood. But if you use a softwood this is unnecessary and undesireable, because the hole will keep the nail from holding fast. Locate four nails in the sides, two on top and two on the bottom. Place them in the areas that will be cut away so the nail holes will not show.
Trace the pattern onto a side (photo 3). Use the plan to locate the pattern correctly on the piece in two locations. Place the piece in a vise and bore holes through the waste areas. These holes are for starting the scroll saw blade. Guide the blade through one of the holes, attach the blade to the machine and cut out that area (photo 4). Let the saw cut at the speed it wants to cut, and don't force it or you'll break the blade. Cut on the outside of the line you traced. This is so that the spaces are always at least 1/2" wide to fit the drum sander that you'll use to smooth the edges. |
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If you need a scroll saw, click here. |
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If you need a 1/2" drum sander, click here. Once the waste areas are all cut out, disattach the two sides from each other and pull the nails. Chuck up a 1/2" drum sander in the drill press (photo 5) and sand the curves smooth (unless, unlike me, you are so good on the scroll saw that you don't need to!). These drum sanders are available from Rockler at the above link. Note that in a few spots the drum sander may contact the wood on both sides of the drum as it fits into tight spaces. On these spots go slowly and let the sander cut at its own speed. Use the roughest grit first, then follow up with a finer grit to smooth things up. If you don't have a drill press place the drum sander in a hand-held drill, or use 60 grit sandpaper and sand by hand. |
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If you need a file, click here. The sander won't reach one spot on the pattern, that is around the central circle. This curved area and the straight edge across from it must be smoothed with a file or sandpaper (photo 6). |
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If you need router bits, click here. I beveled the edges of the pattern with a 45o bevel bit in the router table as in photo 7. You could also use a roundover bit,but be sure you set the bit in the table low enough so that the bearing contacts the edge of the wood. An alternative would be to round over the edges by hand with sandpaper. If you use a router bit, make the cuts fairly quickly to avoid any dwelling which will cause router burn. Keep your fingers away from the bit. This is Page 2 of this project.Go to Page 3. Go to Page 4. Go to Page 1. Home |
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