Glues - Jeff Greef Woodworking

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It's important to understand the different characteristics of the different woodworking glues that are available so you choose the one that will work best for your needs.

Strength is not an issue with most woodworking glues, because all the common ones are stronger than the surrounding wood in a well-made joint. These glues include aliphatic (common yellow woodworkers glue), polyurethane (Gorilla is a common brand), plastic resin (brown urea formaldehyde powder mixed with water), hide glue and epoxies. Glues that are not stronger than the surrounding wood include contact cement and hot melt glue.

For most glues to be stronger than the surrounding wood, though, they can not fill a gap between the two pieces of wood they join. There must be a thin layer of glue between two pieces of wood that would otherwise be touching. The exception to this is epoxy, which will fill huge voids and make an indestructible joint.

Choose a glue according to the convenience of using it. Here are circumstances wherein you ought to use and not to use each type:

Aliphatic- Use for most woodworking. Cleans easily with hot water. Low toxicity, if any. But, it grabs quickly so don't use it where your assembly will take a long time to put together, as in a carcass. For long open time use plastic resin glue. Most aliphatic glues have low water resitance when dry, so are not waterproof. But some formulations are watterproof.
Polyurethane- Expensive, non-water based glue. Must be cleaned with solvents like alcohol. Will fill very small gaps. Cures in a few hours when warm. Big advantage- it takes stains well so glue lines will be nearly invisible. Bonds other materials well to wood. Waterproof. Toxic.
Plastic Resin- Has a very long open time, hours in cooler temperatures, thus is the choice in situations where assembly takes a long time. Must set up overnight. Very water resistant, effectively waterproof. Contains formaldehyde, which is toxic.
Hide Glue- Traditional glue made from cow hides. Big advantage is that it can be disassembled with hot water to make repairs, which can be done with no other glue. Therefore it is the correct choice for proper work on antiques. Very quick grab time makes some assemble procedures go easily, others a nightmare. Not waterproof. Nontoxic.
Epoxies- These are a pain in the neck to use because they are not water soluable. You must use toxic solvents to clean them up. Any epoxy on the wood surface will ruin your finish. But, they fill gaps well, are waterproof, and seal wood against moisture like no other coating. Different formulations have different toxicities, most are very toxic.
Contact Cement- Not so strong, but grabs right away, making it the choice for some veneering and all laminate applications.
Hot Melt Glue Guns- Not so strong, but bonds quickly. Good for temporary things like making jigs where you just need a quick grab.
Cyanoacrylate Glues- "Crazy" glues. Instant bonding makes them useful for little repairs like replacing splinters. Toxic.

When using any toxic glue provide cross ventilation where there are two openings in the room so air can move in and out. Use gloves to keep the glue off your skin, and don't breath any dust with glue in it.

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